Tongue And Groove Design Definition

Tongue And Groove Design Definition

1. Tongue and groove V21-2

Definition of tongue and groove on boards and transfer to machines.

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2. Tongue & Groove Builder

Tongue & Groove build homes, renovations, additions in Wilmington NC.
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3. How to Model a Tongue & Groove Ceiling | Revit

In this video, we take a look at how to model a tongue and groove ceiling. This is just one way because of course there are a million ways to do something in Revit. Let me know what you think of this method in the comments.

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4. Basic Wood Joinery

A brief overview of 12 basic wood joints.

5. CLADDING THE NEW SHED | Wrap, batten and some great value Cedar!

Having gone with a post structured frame, the first job was getting the membrane on and some vertical battens ready for the cladding. The cedar is a nice alternative to treated and a great price!

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6. How to Oxidize (Age) New Wood & Get A Vintage Look

UPDATE (8/2/19): I made a new video about this technique over here:

When it comes to home decor, vintage is definitely in. But if you have ever done some DIY woodworking projects, you'll know it can be hard to obtain that aged wood look. You can either buy pricey "barn wood" from a boutique lumber supplier or let your new lumber from Home Depot sit in the backyard, exposed to the elements for a couple of midwest winters. OR you could use this easy, inexpensive method for aging your wood in just under a week.

What You'll Need

For this product you'll need a few household items from your pantry and garage:

- unfinished, untreated, and sanded wood
- white vinegar
- #0000 grade steel wool
- large (24 oz) glass jar
- black tea (~10 bags)
- disposable paint brushes
- 400 grit sandpaper

Creating your oxidation solution is straightforward. Take a roll of steel wool and tear off bits into your glass jar. Pour in the vinegar until your jar is full and cap the jar with the lid. Oxidation of the steel wool will take about 4-5 days in my experience. In general, the longer your solution can oxidize, the darker your wood color will be. I tested my solution on some pale pine wood after 3 days and it had a nice dark yellow hue to it. After about 6 days of sitting, the solution produced a dark gray. Because every wood will react differently, I would recommend testing your solution on scrap wood to see what kind of hue you'll get.

To help give your wood more definition and properly prep it, you'll want to brush it with a some strong black tea. I brewed some rather strong tea with 10 bags in 2 cups of boiling water. As you can imagine, the tea will slightly stain your wood, but it will also give your wood grain more of a pop. I also discovered that the black tea gives the wood a nicer finisher when you finally apply your oxidation solution. If you skip the tea step, and just use oxidation solution, the wood ends up looked just dirty and not aged. There's just something about that tea that gives the wood a more refined look - sort of how British accents make things seems more sophisticated.

When you're wood is dry from high tea, and after the oxidation solution has sat for 4-5 days, your wood will be ready to get "the look". When you crack open (not literally) your jar, there will probably still be steel wool floating in the solution - that's ok. If you leave the solution sitting long enough, eventually all steel wool remnants will dissolve. And you can save the solution for future projects. Using a foam brush, paint on the solution. The wood will almost instantly turn gray, and over the next 10 minutes, it will get even darker.

After the wood has dried, give it a light sanding with 400-grit sandpaper. This will help lighten up the stain and even out the color. The more you sand the wood, the more you'll remove the stain (obviously), but it can produces some unique variations in the grain - up to you, but again, be sure to experiment on some pieces before applying to your final project.

For the finish, I use a clear semi-gloss Poly Whey Furniture Finish from Vermont Natural Coatings. This is a really easy-to-use finish with low odor, quick dry time, and it feels great to the touch. I can't recommend it highly enough, and you have it shipped right to you from Amazon. I like to lightly sand with 400-grit sandpaper after each coat to keep that super smooth feel, and I would recommend applying 3 coats of this finish.

So what will you build now that you know how easy it is to get this vintage wood look? I've got a few projects up my sleeve, and when you think about, the sky's the limit. Imagine building your own farm or a little box for holding those bathroom towels that you're not suppose to use - whatever!

Let me know if you have any ideas in the comments below, and I would love to see what you build.

#woodworking #DIY #woodstain

7. Seal a tongue and groove ceiling using Big Stretch caulking

We had wood particles and dust falling from our tongue and groove ceiling due to some widened gaps. We did some research and tests and found that the Big Stretch caulking was the best solution to help avoid cracking from expansion and contraction later on. I suggest getting a dripless caulk gun but the Big Stretch caulking does not keep dripping as bad as other caulks when you release the pressure. The color matched perfectly as well.

Big Stretch by Sashco
Available at, Amazon and other home improvement resellers.

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8. Shiplap VS Nickel Gap | Nickel Gap is Better!!!

In this video we take at the differences between Shiplap & Nickel Gap. Shiplap is the common terminology but nickel gap has some distinct advantages in terms of installation and quality of the finished product.

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(0:00) Intro
(1:18) Nickel Gap Milled Profile
(1:51) Shiplap Milled Profile
(2:46) Material Thickness Matters
(4:10) Ease of Installation
(4:34) Shiplap Reveal is Adjustable
(5:25) Face Nailing is Bad
(7:09) Should You Use Adhesive
(10:50) Fastest Installation
(11:46) Best Material Choice???
(13:15) MDF is Easy to Install
(13:54) Material Must Be Sanded

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9. Composite Decks

installing a Breaker board is the way to go!

10. Introduction To Cabinetry Within SolidWorks Part 1: Multi-bodies

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11. The “Kundi” Confusion #ByeLingual

12. Intro to Joinery - Understanding the Basics to be a Better Woodworker

Huge thanks to reMarkable for sponsoring this video! The reMarkable 2 Paper Tablet has completely streamlined my workflow as I design and build my projects. You can check it out here -

As always, Thanks to Woodcraft for sponsoring what I do! You can find everything you need to start creating beautiful woodworking projects here -
For more specific items I used in this video… keep on scrolling!

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Dowel Jig:

Pocket Hole Jig:

Ryoba Handsaw:

Miter Gauge:

Rabbeting Bit:

Tongue and Groove Bit Set:

Flat Top Grind Blade (FTG) for Joinery:

Dovetail Router Bit:





Dowel Desk For my son with Plugged Screws:

Dowel Jig:

Wood Movement Calculator from Jonathan Katz-Moses:

Table with Hidden Spline Miter Joint:

Box with Brass Splines (Router Table Spline Jig):

Drill Press Angle Jig:

Exact Width Dado Jig:

6 Ways to Cover Plywood (Tongue and Groove info):

Angled Bridle Joint How To:

Whole Table build with Angled Bridle Joint:

Tenoning Jig:

3 Way Bridle Joint:

Loose Tenon Jig:

Alternative methods to a Domino Joint:

Tablesaw Finger Joint/Box Joint Jig:


Box without reinforcements in Miter:

Record Player Stand with Sliding Dovetail in Base:


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0:00 Intro
0:19 reMarkable
2:31 Butt Joint
8:02 Miter
10:36 Dados, Grooves, and Rabbets
13:09 Tongue and Groove
14:08 Lap Joints
16:42 Bridle Joint
18:11 Mortise and Tenon
19:37 Loose Tenon
20:33 Box Joints
21:43 Dovetails
23:06 Sliding Dovetail
24:07 Outro

13. How To Install a Herringbone Wood Floor | I Like To Make Stuff

To add a bit of class to our entry way, I laid down some herringbone flooring! Come see how I did it!

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When you buy traditional flooring, they come already cut, usually with a tongue on one side, and a groove on the other. They are also cut to various lengths so that your final floor pattern is random and not purposefully repeated. Herringbone floors are meant to be laid in a pattern so the irregular pieces of flooring have to be modified.

After doing the rough math of our entryway's square footage, I figured out that I would need over 200 pieces of flooring cut to the same length. I opened some remaining boxes of flooring and used my miter saw to cut the giant pile of pieces. Because of the nature of herringbone floors and the construction of tongue and groove flooring, I wasn't don't modifying these pieces yet.

Normally, when you lay tongue and groove flooring, the tongue fits inside of the groove the whole length of the piece as well the sides. In our case I had to cut each piece the same length resulting in only groove remaining one side. Because the pieces would be paid out in 90-degree butt joints, I had to add a groove to the other side.

Think of it like this, one piece of flooring would lead with a tongue and another piece would butt up against the front corner. This had to be a groove or the straight cut from the miter saw would lock the pieces into place. Conversely, behind that 90-degree segment would be the original long grooves. In order to get another row of flooring to join up with those, I had to cut splines that would fit into both grooves. So yes, I had more repetitive cutting to do.

To match the aesthetic of the rest of the floor, I had to add a small micro-bevel to the freshly cut end. I did this by setting up a chamfering bit in my router table and carefully passing each end over the tiny exposed cutter.

With all of the flooring cut and all of the splines ready, I had to start laying the pattern. I cut a simple plywood template to help me get the initial row of 90-degree segments and got to work. I used my flooring nailer to secure the pieces in place and got to work. This process took a while longer than laying the traditional flooring because there were so many small pieces. I also had to keep checking the squareness of my work so that the 90-degree would be consistent throughout.

I covered a majority of the floor with the herringbone flooring but as I approached the door ways, I had to fill in the small gaps with some custom cut pieces. It was really coming together and I was surprised by how nice it looked.

When I set out on the project, I wasn't quite sure how I would tie this new floor pattern into the rest of traditional flooring. After looking at the entryway itself, I could see the it had pretty clearly defined boundaries. There is a French door leading to the living room and a door way leading to the adjoining room. My wife and I decided that it would look best to just add a border around the herringbone flooring to match the confines of the room. This way, I could match the rest of the flooring seamlessly and give the entryway some definition.

To add this two-board thick border, I had to cut off the pointy bits of herringbone that stuck out on the sides. This solution seemed pretty straight-forward until I had to actually cut the pieces. I would have to use the circular saw for this extremely crucial cut; a tool that is notoriously sloppy. If my cut wasn't straight the boards wouldn't fit, if was too wide, there would be an ugly gap. I scribed my line very carefully and used my rip track to cut a perfect line in the floor. Success!

I laid in the border pieces and had to cut off the lower lip of the grooves in some cases to get them to fit. Because tongue and groove requires you build the floor upon itself successively, I couldn't just drop a piece down into an existing space. So by cutting off the lower lip I could anchor the tongue in place and sit the upper lip of the groove on the next tongue. Of course this wasn't that secure, so I used some nails to hold those key pieces down to the subfloor.

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How To Install a Herringbone Wood Floor | I Like To Make Stuff

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14. How to Install & Choose Tongue and Groove Timber Flooring - TTTraining Ep #6

*Click below to jump to a section. This episode covers Different Timber Species + Tongue and Groove Installation! Thanks to Boral for joining us! Available in full High Definition!

Learn all about:
Different Timber Species: 2:00 - 8:42
Grading: 6:52 & 9:10
Janka ratings: 10:05
T&G Installation: 12:58
Q&A with Boral: 18:03 (includes notch sizes, trail direction, end joints, common mistakes, climates & Boral grading process)

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#boral #timberspecies #timberfloors #timberflooring #howto #training #productdemo #demo #tutorial #learn #goldcoast #australia #brisbane

15. This Tiny House Could Solve Your Housing Needs

Get more details of this tiny house here:

NOAH+ Certification
Heavy duty trailer with dual or triple 6,000 pound axles
Stick built with 2×4 lumber
Roof system constructed with 2×6 and 2×8 lumber
Metal strapping and hurricane ties for added strength
Heavy duty metal roof or architectural shingles (your choice)
12,000 BTU mini split
Gable roof style
All PEX water lines
Electric or gas water heater
Exterior siding: LP SmartSide Lap Siding (horizontal on entire house and vertical board and batten on front)
36” entry door
Four single hung vinyl windows (with optional additional windows if desired)
Flooring: Luxury Vinyl Plank
Interior Siding: 5/8” Real Wood Shiplap
Ceiling: Pine tongue and groove
Recessed Lighting
Storage loft above bathroom
50 Amp hookup
Exterior entry light
Exterior GFI outlet
Exterior water hose hookup
Stainless steel sink with retractable single hole faucet
6′ or 8′ Butcher block countertop (depending on tiny house length) with staining available
White or custom painted cabinets
Two burner cooktop (electric or gas)
Fire extinguisher and smoke alarm
Butcher block shelving
32″ or 36″ one-piece shower
30″ vanity with countertop sink
Exhaust fan
Flush toilet
Insulated above NOAH standard

R23 in floor
R13 in walls
R19 in ceiling

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